agnés b. Men FW 2014/2015 at Paris Men's Fashion Week

French designer Agnes Trouble aka agnés b. delighted the audience after presenting her FW 14/15 collection (and what a dandy collection it was!) on the final day of Paris Men's Fashion Week men's fashion week. Agnes, 73, has been designing menswear for three decades and her inspiration displays all things film noir and bygone eras. You can see how Downton Abbey's sense of fashion became a trend on the catwalk. Trouble's latest collection is über-retro-themed, to say the least! The fashion show displayed an array of Rasputin-meets-Corto Maltese, ghoulish models (Bram Stoker and Poe would looove their pale, dusty faces with dark circles) down the runway, balancing the embellished details of British style at its finest, and bringing the best out of its aesthetic roots.

The Upstairs/Downstairs references captured the essence of iconic elements that would charm Lord Grantham's tailor, featuring classy ensembles and expensive-looking fabrics and rich textures. Think Oxford grey, tweed galore (oh, the British Countryside at its best), navy, suspenders, silk cravats, shiny brogues, splendorous suits, cordouroy pantaloons, gloves, pocket watches and pinstrip shirts - a dramatic throwback to the golden of age of a man's wardrobe! No wonder I'm obsessed with period clothes... and so are you, otherwise you wouldn't be marvelling at all these fashion wonders.

I felt so inspired by this fashion show, and also related to its own allusions. I mean, I see a lot of Boardwalk Empire in the sharp-suited gangster garments; the baker hats, such common attire for the working man in the post-Edwardian era, remind me so much of BBC's Peaky Blinders; such swell looks reminiscent of Oscar Wilde himself.

This fashion show looks and feels like entering Titanic: ranging from the aristocratic 1st class to the tough working class, catching a glimpse of houndstooth here and there, cockney accent all over, the smell of smoking pipes, pork pie and bowler hats, sailor suits... All the evocative atmosphere coming to life, bringing out antique and vintage fashion gems through an extensive display of fine revivals.

In this retrospective collection, the presentation ranged from the 19th Century Victorian and fin de siècle look to the contemporary elegant, classic yet modern, urban gentleman, resulting in the ultimately chic and timeless, charismatic cross between charm and class.
Some of the modern looks also featured, kept the prim and proper clean look with monochromatic hues that contrasted with the Russian romance-like garb, for a soberer approach in this inspiring and charming epic fashion collection.

"Mod Couples", a photographic project by Carlotta Cardana

“Mod Couples” is an ongoing personal project on couples who belong to the Mod scene, a subculture that originated in Britain in the late 1950s and became very popular during the 1960s. It is quite difficult to pin down what lies at the heart of this movement as it has evolved in many different ways during the years and morphed into different subcultures. All Mods, however, share a passion for everything related to the 1950s and the 1960s, especially the clothes and the music.

While their style is what catches the eye at first, my interest in developing this project goes well beyond their appearance. As a matter of fact, even if all the couples regularly attend various Mod events, they might have different influences in their style. The subculture and all of its elements – the fashion, the music, the scooters,… – only provide the framework for this series. From an outsider’s point of view, I am trying to get a glimpse of their identity beyond the “mask” and to portray them for who they are, rather than for what they wear.

I decided to focus on couples because I am fascinated by the way their identities blend together to produce something larger than the sum of its parts. Within the formality required by shooting with a medium format camera, I don’t “direct” the couples by asking them to pose in a specific way. Instead, I let them assume a pose that feels natural to them. I believe that in the subtleties of their posture, a lot is revealed about themselves – as individuals and as a couple.

I am also quite interested in the relationship between a person and his or her surrounding environment, in seeing how they complement each other. Consequently, I took elaborate planning out of the equation when making these pictures: the couples chose what to wear and where to be photographed. The world depicted in the pictures is entirely the world they have created for themselves.

I am besotted with this project. These couples are beyond stylish, look at them! The chic cuts, the sophisticated outfits, the classic hairstyling... I am so into this British Invasion meets Mad Men costume design sort of thing, you know. I wish I could sneak into their wardrobe at night and steal all those marvellous pieces - I'm all up for a textile raid.