Tuesday, January 28, 2014

agnés b. Men FW 2014/2015 at Paris Men's Fashion Week


French designer Agnes Trouble aka agnés b. delighted the audience after presenting her FW 14/15 collection (and what a dandy collection it was!) on the final day of Paris Men's Fashion Week men's fashion week. Agnes, 73, has been designing menswear for three decades and her inspiration displays all things film noir and bygone eras. You can see how Downton Abbey's sense of fashion became a trend on the catwalk. Trouble's latest collection is über-retro-themed, to say the least! The fashion show displayed an array of Rasputin-meets-Corto Maltese, ghoulish models (Bram Stoker and Poe would looove their pale, dusty faces with dark circles) down the runway, balancing the embellished details of British style at its finest, and bringing the best out of its aesthetic roots.

The Upstairs/Downstairs references captured the essence of iconic elements that would charm Lord Grantham's tailor, featuring classy ensembles and expensive-looking fabrics and rich textures. Think Oxford grey, tweed galore (oh, the British Countryside at its best), navy, suspenders, silk cravats, shiny brogues, splendorous suits, cordouroy pantaloons, gloves, pocket watches and pinstrip shirts - a dramatic throwback to the golden of age of a man's wardrobe! No wonder I'm obsessed with period clothes... and so are you, otherwise you wouldn't be marvelling at all these fashion wonders.

I felt so inspired by this fashion show, and also related to its own allusions. I mean, I see a lot of Boardwalk Empire in the sharp-suited gangster garments; the baker hats, such common attire for the working man in the post-Edwardian era, remind me so much of BBC's Peaky Blinders; such swell looks reminiscent of Oscar Wilde himself.

This fashion show looks and feels like entering Titanic: ranging from the aristocratic 1st class to the tough working class, catching a glimpse of houndstooth here and there, cockney accent all over, the smell of smoking pipes, pork pie and bowler hats, sailor suits... All the evocative atmosphere coming to life, bringing out antique and vintage fashion gems through an extensive display of fine revivals.

In this retrospective collection, the presentation ranged from the 19th Century Victorian and fin de siècle look to the contemporary elegant, classic yet modern, urban gentleman, resulting in the ultimately chic and timeless, charismatic cross between charm and class.
Some of the modern looks also featured, kept the prim and proper clean look with monochromatic hues that contrasted with the Russian romance-like garb, for a soberer approach in this inspiring and charming epic fashion collection.

6 comments:

  1. Confesso que foi das melhores colecções homem que vi nos últimos 20 anos.
    http://afashionfauxpas.blogspot.pt/

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  2. Acho que estão todos tristes porque estando tão bem vestidos, pintaram-lhes a cara assim...:-)
    Realmente os rapazes em vez de andarem com calças de ganga a cair pelo rabo abaixo, devia tirar algumas ideias daqui.
    xx

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  3. Parecem personagens saídas de um filme do Burton<3

    xoxo
    Dani
    A Strangeness in me Blog

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